So much artistry goes into making good suit that you'd be crazy not to arm yourself with our indispensable guide to finding the right one

Bespoke: The ultimate in tailoring and the male equivalent of a couture dress. The term comes from the word “bespoken”, meaning the customer describes to the tailor exactly what he wants.

Made to measure: Many firms offer a suit halfway between bespoke and off-the-peg. Termed Special Make or made-to-measure, these suits usually involve adjusting a set pattern to your measurements while you choose the cloth and various other details.

Off the peg: A standard suit bought from a store, either high street or designer. You have to make sure the fit is good since the only options for adjustments are shortening of trouser legs and sleeves.

Does it fit:
Shoulder width: The collar should fit flush against the back of the neck. Anything too wide will badly affect the balance of the jacket.

Arm Holes: Should be tight but not too uncomfortable. Too big and the jacket will ride up the back when you reach out.

Cuff and Jacket length: let your arms hang naturally, then curl up your palms. The cuff should fit snugly in each hand. The jacket length is a matter of taste

Trouser length: Trousers should rest on the shoe and buckle roughly three inches up for the hem. The buckle should be half an inch.

Crotch: You should be able to slip your hands comfortably inside the pockets.

Patterns: With checks or stripes, make sure the pattern on the collar and sleeves lines up with the back of the jacket. Lapels should line with the front.

Shoulder Padding: This affects the overall shape. If you have small or sloping shoulders go for heavier padding

Stitching: The hallmark of quality stitching should be neat and firm. Look around the button holes and ensure that there are several rounds of even stitching. Hand stitching is best, but it sometimes looks uneven next to machine work.

Lapel: Standard lapel width is between 3 and 4 inches. It varies, of course, but just be sure the proportion is pleasing – and there’s not too small a gap between the outer edge and your shoulder.

Armholes: Watch out for tightness at the bottom of your armpit. Armholes should be wide enough to allow you to freely move your arms

Button: A weak pointing many poor quality suits. These should be well sewn in., with no loose threads, and be tight when fastened, but allowing enough leeway for them to be easy to fasten

Sleeves: Should come to between half and a quarter of an inch of the end of the cuff., ideally at the mid point of your wrist bone while your arms are by your side.

Rise: The area between the crotch and waistband is important. The taller the man, The longer the rise should be.

Front: You can choose between pleatless flat-fronted , single-pleated and double pleated trousers. The cleanest and smoothest (and therefore most fashionable at the moment) is a flat front.

Shape: Should be smooth., with no bulging or creasing and not tight on our legs. The modern suit tends to avoid cuffs